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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. However, tucked high among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has made the family totally shocked.

“I’m totally astonished,” says the family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small place earning such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has kept much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. As the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.