On the Trail Illegal Hunters Illegally Trapping the Nation's Endangered Wild Birds.
The conservationist's gaze sweeps across miles of dense fields, looking for suspicious activity in the inky blackness.
He speaks in a muted voice as the team seeks a spot to hide in the fields. Behind us, the huge urban center of Beijing slumbers on. As we wait, the only sound is the sound of breathing.
And then, as the sky starts to lighten ahead of sunrise, the sound of footsteps emerges. The hunters have arrived.
Caught
Across the heavens, billions of birds, some tiny enough that they can fit in the palm of your hand, are traveling to the south for winter.
They have utilized the extended daylight in northern regions, consuming bugs and berries. As the year nears its end and chilling gusts bring the early cold of winter, they head to warmer places to find food and shelter.
There are more than 1,500 bird species, representing roughly thirteen percent of the global population – more than 800 of those are birds that migrate. Four of the nine major flyways they follow converge in China.
The area of meadow being monitored, on the edges of the Chinese capital, is an refuge for small birds – any further and the city skies offer scant chance to rest among forests of concrete.
It is equally attractive for the poachers and their "mist nets", so fine you can barely see them.
The trap we stumbled upon was strung across a large section of the field and propped up with bamboo poles. In the middle, a tiny bird was fighting hard to escape, but the more it struggled, the more its claws became tangled.
It was a meadow pipit, a protected bird in China, and an important "indicator species" – that means if its numbers are thriving, so is its habitat.
Hunting the Hunters
Silva, who is in his 30s, carries out this mission for free using his personal funds. He has forgone many sleeping hours to rescue birds, and he has spent the last decade persuading the police in Beijing to prioritize this issue.
"Initially, no-one cared," he says.
So he enlisted helpers who were concerned and established a group known as the Bird Protection Unit. He organized public meetings and invited the heads of the relevant authorities. These small and persistent acts of persuasion have shown results. The police found that apprehending illegal hunters also helped in identifying other kinds of illegal operations.
"We found our objectives became somewhat shared," Silva says, adding the caveat that enforcement is still patchy.
This fascination with birds started in childhood. He grew up in the 1990s in a very different Beijing.
He recalls wandering in the grasslands on the city's edges where he encountered birds, frogs and snakes. "However, beginning in the 2000s, everything changed."
China's booming economy brought millions of rural workers to cities. This fast-paced development meant grasslands were viewed as areas for development, not sanctuaries to preserve.
This shift shocked him. The grasslands began to shrink, as did the habitats they supported.
"I decided back then to work in conservation and I chose this direction," he says.
It has not been an simple journey. A major Beijing's biggest bird dealers found out he was being investigated by Silva and fought back.
"He assembled several of his accomplices who confronted me and assaulted me," Silva remembers. He says he reported to the police but the perpetrators were not brought to justice.
He has also seen the departure of his team of helpers over the years. This work requires stealth and sleepless nights. Silva says not many are prepared for the difficult – and sometimes dangerous job.
"I do this full-time," he says. "I made it a project because if you want to address this major issue, you must commit completely. You cannot be half-hearted."
He says donations pays for some of the costs – more than 100,000 yuan a year – but funding has declined because of the economic situation.
So he has found new ways to hunt the hunters.
He examines satellite imagery to find the routes worn away by the poachers. He maps those against the birds' migratory routes and looks for areas where they may stop for the night. The aerial views can even show lines of net traps which can catch hundreds of small birds at night.
"Siberian rubythroats and bluethroats sell for a premium," Silva says. "In big cities like Beijing and Tianjin, those who want to keep birds are now often affluent."
Although there are wildlife laws in place, Silva argues the fines to deter the activity do not exceed the potential profits of catching and selling songbirds.
Owning a pet bird was – and for some generations in China, still is – a mark of prestige. This dates back to the imperial era. Wealthy individuals would build elaborate bamboo cages for their birds.
It's a tradition that continues mainly among retired men in their later years. Silva says older Chinese people may not understand they are breaking the law, or grasp that so many more birds were killed in a trap for them to purchase a pet.
"These individuals often lacked enough to eat in their youth. Now with some disposable income, they have adopted the habit and custom of keeping birds in cages," he says. "The nation progressed so fast, there was little opportunity to raise awareness about the environment. Once adults' values are formed, they're really hard to change."
Busted
On a long low wall in Beijing, a trader has several small cages with chirping songbirds.
Another man is positioned near a nearby market holding a bird cage shrouded in a black veil. He informs passers-by discreetly that his songbird is rare, worth nearly 1900 yuan.
This is a glimpse of an traditional side of the city where informal vendors have established a niche trade.
The area by the river extends over several miles and on a sunny weekday morning, there were shoppers browsing everything from vintage jewellery to false teeth.
Information suggested that wild songbirds could be purchased in a nearby green space. The location was not concealed.
Music was blasting from a speaker in a shaded area where a troop of elderly ladies were performing a fan dance. Close by several men, all in their later years, had gathered with bird cages – some had two or three in their hands. Most were covered in dark cloth.
But on this occasion there would be no sales because the police had appeared. They were questioning the bird owners and taking names. Unyielding, one man claimed he was {taking his caged bird for a walk|simply exercising his